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Kim's Horsefly

Hook: Dai Riki 074, size 8.
Thread: Black 8/0.
Eyes: Small bead chain.
Tail: A bit of fluff from the base of a black saddle hackle.
Body: Black chenille or dubbing.
Hackle: Small black saddle hackle palmered up the hook and tied off behind the eyes.
This is probably the most productive fly I've found for catching big sunfish. The bigger they get,
the more time they spend in deeper water. The biggest bluegills and pumpkinseeds like to hang just
beyond the first drop-off, especially if there's a weedbed that defines the edge of that drop-off.
The fish noodle around along that edge, poking the bottom and looking for stray nymphs and small
crayfish. The Horsefly sinks quickly enough to get past any of the little fish. You can hop this
fly along the bottom and pick up plenty of surprisingly large bluegills. (It also works great for
bedding bluegills and even for bass in cold water.)
Carter's Wetfly

Hook: Dry- or wet-fly hook, size 8 through 12.
Thread: Olive 6/0.
Weight: Small brass bead.
Tail: Olive craft fur or marabou.
Body: Half-clipped hackle wound up the hook shank.
Hackle: Two or three turns of yellow grizzly hackle.
Carter Nelson is probably one of the great unsung heroes of fly fishing for panfish. Nobody I know
has put as much time, effort, imagination and research into developing and perfecting flies for
all manner of panfish. As I recall it, Carter developed this particular pattern for shellcrackers.
We fished this pattern for shellcrackers off a swimming beach at Calaway Gardens in Georgia, and the
fish could not leave this thing alone. To make matters even more interesting, it was the only fly
they would eat. Who could have figured shellcrackers to be selective?
Since then, I've fished this pattern for all sorts of bluegills, redbreasts, pumpkinseeds, and even
yellow perch with great success. The tiny brass bead head provides just enough weight to make the
fly drift down when it's stopped, but not enough so that it acts like a depth-charge. The hardest
part about tying this pattern is the clipped hackle body. You can take some of the cheapest,
nastiest, most-useless feathers you have and clip the barbs perhaps a 16th of an inch away from
the quill. Or you can cheat and use small chenille. We purists insist on the clipped hackle.
Foam Thing

Hook: Mustad 3366, size 4 through 10.
Thread: Chartreuse Flat Wax Nylon.
Legs: Clipped spinnerbait skirt.
Body: Small piece of Darice Foamie foam folded over the hook as shown.
Not everything in fly fishing has to be complex, and this is one bug that's ridiculously easy
to tie. Just attach a small clump of rubber legs to the top of the hook using X-wraps, then lash a
diamond-shaped bit of foam sheet to the top of the hook at the bend. Fold it over the eye of the
hook, then force the eye through the foam. Tie the foam off at the same spot you attached it to the
top of the hook. Add a drop of superglue to keep everything secure.
If you haven't played with Darice Foamie sheet foam, you're missing out on a great material. At a
mere 69-cents per sheet (at Wal*Mart), you can experiment to your heart's content without going
broke. Even better, this stuff comes in a rainbow of colors. It glues reasonably well with
something like TiteBond superglue. Buy some and check it out. (It makes fabulous Gartside Gurglers.)
Foam Spider

Hook: Dry- or wet-fly hook, size 8 through 12.
Thread: Red 6/0.
Body: Small bit of foam.
Legs: Two crossed strands of round rubber.
This is another insanely easy pattern that works great. I like to fish these things under overhanging
bushes and trees, especially on breezy days. While this is obviously a good fly for bluegills, red
breasts and the like, I'm surprised at how often bass, crappies, and perch go after it. I guess
even bigger fish like those get the urge to snack on spiders every so often.
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